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Denny's Soapbox |
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Timing is Everything when it Comes to Gardening
Welcome to 2008. When it comes to gardening and yard projects, nothing really changes. One of the main keys to successful gardening begins with timing. Certain yard projects and landscape maintenance can be more successfully done if preformed at the optimum time of the year for that activity. The following are some great questions from homeowners attempting to make their landscape look its best. Q. Will all the moisture we received at the end of the 2007 help the many trees and shrubs that suffered due to last summer’s drought? A. With all plants, it’s more important when we get moisture and not how much did we get when the moisture came down. It was great that we got all that moisture in December helping all our trees and shrubs survive this winter. However, many plants especially older trees and shrubs suffered drought damage that might not appear for several seasons. You can have your trees and shrubs checked in mid to late spring this year by a qualified landscaper or certified arborist. Q. You mentioned in a previous column this past fall that the 2nd best time to plant grass seed is during the winter. When exactly is the best time to put my grass seed down? A. The best time to put grass seed down is September. Normally cooler weather and adequate moisture allows new grass to grow and get established before its first winter. January or February is the second best time to seed. The only preparation you have to do is to remove any fallen leaves that would keep your new seed from making good seed to soil contact. The winter heaving and thawing of your lawn soil will make a natural seed bed and the new seed will germinate as the soil warms up in early to mid-spring. I personally recommend putting your winter seed down in mid to late February and when there is no snow on the ground. You want to be able to see where you’re putting your new seed. If you have a lawn service inform them that you have winter seeded so they don’t put down pre-emergent seed control until after your new seed has germinated. You can tell them when this has occurred. Same goes for you do-it-yourselfers. Q. I have some low branches on a couple of red maples that makes mowing the grass underneath almost impossible. Can I take these branches off? And when is the best time to do it? A. You can limb up your trees anytime. Use a pruning saw, not a carpenter saw. There is a swollen area where the branch joins the trunk. This area is referred to as the collar. When you prune the branch, leave one third to one half of the collar attached to the trunk. This will allow the scar to heal. Do not put anything over the fresh cut. If you don’t like that fresh cut look, smear a little mud on the fresh cut. Make as much clearance for yourself as you need to cut your grass. Q. I understand how and when to winter seed my lawn. My question concerns areas of my lawn that I have moss. Can I seed over the top of the moss? A. No the moss has to be removed. You can rake it off so that your new seed lands on soil. If these areas are shady during the growing season, be sure to seed with Turf Fescue. This is the best type of seed for shade. Finelawn Elite is the best variety of Turf Fescue. Q. I did not get a chance to divide my daylilies due to all the late fall rain. Can I divide them in the spring or wait and try again next fall? A. Early spring, mid-March is a great time to divide all perennials. Dig and divide your various clumps and replant to the same depth that they were growing in their previous home. Keep the questions coming! It will help both you and me to get through winter and think spring. |
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