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| #3 - More Denny's Tips | |||||||||||||||||||
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More Denny Tips
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| Late Fall Finishing Touches This time of year always brings out many questions about the landscape. Many of you are trying to do last minute chores putting the landscape to bed for the winter. Most of the questions asked are about late fall lawn care, winterizing roses, and general plant tips. Let’s review these prime areas. |
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| Lawn Care Continue to cut your lawn until it stops growing. This usually occurs around Thanksgiving. Leave your lawn cut to 2 -1/2” for winter. All homeowners who are applying the Ohio State University lawn 3 Step Fertilizer recommendations should be applying your third and final application for the year of high nitrogen, quick release lawn food. You might take your mower in for service now to beat the early spring rush. Be sure to have them sharpen the blade/blades. You can aerate your lawn through late fall until the ground freezes. Do not put any grass seed down until late winter, around late February to early March.
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| Winterizing Roses Leave all roses tall for winter, at least 24 to 30” high. Do not prune any roses until the leaves fall which could be mid-December. Do not prune climbers at all. They will bloom next year on the canes that grew this year. All roses except Knock Outs & other shrub roses) should be mulched up with soil, mulch, or leaves 6-8” up all the canes. Again, do this when all the rose leaves have fallen. Do NOT use Rose Cones. You have to cut your Roses back too far to get the cone to fit over the Rose. Collect as many of this past seasons rose leaves and give them to Rumpke. This will take a lot of future problems with black spot away. Any Knock Out or other roses that have been put in patio pots for the season should be placed in an unheated garage for the winter. |
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| General Planting and other Yard Tips Remember, you can continue to plant trees, shrubs, and spring flowering bulbs this year until the ground freezes. Some leaves are falling late this fall due to the beautiful fall weather. They still have to be removed from the lawn. You can use your lawn mower as long as the chewed up leaves don’t completely cover the grass. Do not leave your leaves piled up around the trunk of your trees or piled up under you shrubs. You don’t want wet leaves against the trunks of your trees and shrubs. Remember, leaf composting is easy. |
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| One of the largest risks to your smaller flowering and shade trees are the antlers of the buck deer. This is the time of year that they look for a mate to date. Like any typical male, they like to show off to their possible mates by sparring with young trees 1” to 4” in trunk caliper (diameter) measured 6 to 12 inches from the ground. They hook their antlers against the trunks of young trees and push up and down to strengthen their neck muscles. It may be fun to watch but it can be devastating to the tree trunk’s bark removing it from the sparring areas. The only part of a tree trunk that’s alive is that thin area of wood between the outer bark and the hardwood inside. This area is referred to as the Cambian layer consisting of two elevators.The outer area called the Phloem is the elevator that takes the manufactured food produced by the foliage and transports it to the roots so they may eat and grow. The inner elevator is known as the Xylem and this is the elevator that transports water from the roots to the leaves (food makers) above.When the deer antlers rub hard enough against the bark to remove it, they have destroyed the life system of both the tree tops and roots. There is no spray or other treatment that can repair the damage. If the bark is removed around the trunk in any given area of the trunk, that tree will die due to starvation and dehydration. Be a wise home owner and protect your 1” to 4” caliper trees by wrapping the trunks with paper tree wrap, cardboard collars, expanded plastic collars or chicken wire fence around the first 4 feet of the trunk. If you use any material that completely covers the trunk, remove in late February as any longer can damage the trunk due to too long a period with no light on the bark. This gives the expanded plastic type, available at all garden centers, to be the easiest and best as they can remain on the tree year round. Once damage occurs, no treatment should be given. Any applied paint or other material will prevent any healing. |
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Deer Damage
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Deer Guard
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| The tree will take care of itself if savable. Please cover the trunk/trunks this week. Late fall is a great time to feed all your shrubs including evergreens. Use a balanced plant food and apply to the soil around the plants. A hand-held applicator is a great tool to use for this project. Perennials can either be cut back to the ground now or you can wait until early spring. Sometime this winter you’ll need to cut back your ornamental grasses. Cut the blades close to the ground and do before new grass starts to grow in the spring. Don’t do any pruning to your spring flowering trees and shrubs until after they bloom next year if you want to enjoy that spring color. Final Tip - Late fall and winter is a great time to contact a landscape designer for any new spring projects. Remember, in the spring, its first come, first served. Happy Thanksgiving! |
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