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#3 - Rose Certificates and Gift Cards
#4 - 3 Step Lawn Fertilization
#5 - Unseasonably Warm Temperatures
Plants of the Week
Grass Plants/Lawns
The 1st plant we'll discuss this year is the #1 plant everyone wants to have and keep healthy

A new year begins and so could the way you maintain your lawn.
Ohio State University studies have concluded that many lawns are currently being over fed and there is also, in some cases, a mis-use of lawn pesticides.

There are some do-it-yourselfers and some professional lawn services that are following these proven correct lawn care procedures recommended by OSU, but unfortunately there are many out there not following these guidelines. It doesn't matter, if you decide to do-it-yourself or you decide to hire a professional lawn service, it’s important to arm yourself with knowledge of the correct proven lawn care methods to ensure you get the best possible results for your dollar and your lawn.

The following conclusions are lawn care procedures from turf experts, Dr. John Street and Pamela Sherratt with the O.S.U. Department of Horticulture, David Shetlar, PHD, with the Department of Entomology and Parwinder Grewal PHD, Urban Landscape Ecology. Let me share with you their findings after multi-year studies.
Lawn Fertilization
The basic conclusions from the OSU study is that the best fertilization program is one with a light feeding of nitrogen in the spring and two heavy feedings of high nitrogen quick release fertilizer in the fall, September and November.

Weed Control
The most effective control against the establishment of weeds in turfgrass is the culture and maintenance of a dense, healthy strand of turfgrass. This preventative cultural approach is successful only if proper fertilization, mowing, irrigation, pest control practices are implemented in the treatment of the turfgrass. It’s not difficult - common sense with a little fertilizer to your spring lawn and heavy feedings in the fall will give you great results.
Mowing Heights

Mow all turf grass at 3” during the growing season. This height will help shade the soil during hot weather and allow each grass plant to store more water and nutrients in the blade. It will also make it too shady for weed seeds to germinate. In late fall mowing heights should start to be lowered. Lowering the height down to 2.25” will allow more of the stored nutrients to enhance the root system while also preventing severe winter injury to the grass tips. Leave your mower height at 2.25” for your first mowing of the following spring season, then raise it back to 3”.

Best Grass Varieties

Most lawns are made-up of perennial rye, bluegrass, and fine and turf fescue or all the above. For years, blue grass was the most popular variety of grass for sunny lawns, perennial rye and fine fescues were the best for shady lawns. Through many years of turf trials held all across the country, turf fescue has proven to be the best grass for sun or for shade areas, the most drought tolerant, and the most resistant to turf insects and disease. Turf fescue can be overseeded into your existing lawn of mixed varieties to boost the lawn’s strength. Turf fescue is also the ideal grass to have in a lawn that you want to organically maintain without chemicals.

In summary, these findings go against many programs currently being offered by some professional lawn services and by some programs sold to homeowners who choose to do it themselves. Before you decide on a lawn program for 2012, I encourage you to visit my website at www.bloomingarden.com. Once you are there, you can find more information and facts provided in the tip sheet section from the experts at Ohio State University. After you have researched this information, you can then present these facts to anyone who disagrees and if they do, ask for their proof of their own lawn plan.

I have personally treated my lawn with the O.S.U. recommendations for the last 5 years. I have a thick, beautiful lawn and so can you.

DENNY MCKEOWN LANDSCAPING
DENNY'S GARDEN INFO
THE BLOOMIN NEWSLETTER